Take This Job And Love It

I have had a number of different jobs in my 42 years. I have worked in record stores and coffee shops, in a toy store in the mall, and in a shop that sold precious things that I considered junk. I have been a writer, a copy editor, and a managing editor. And I have taught English in Korea and Japan.

Some people know what job they want. They come out of school with a career goal and they do that one job until they stop working. My father was a dentist, my mother a teacher. I have taken many jobs but I never felt compelled to do just one. Even my job now, teaching English in Japan, is the means to being in Japan, the larger goal. I enjoy my job but I adore the students more than I like teaching, honestly. I like being around them. I don’t know anything about pedagogy or methods.

My future career goals are similarly oriented towards staying in Japan. I need a job that will support my lifestyle. I’d like to teach at a university in Japan because I like talking about Japan and I like being in Japan. The idea of being in a learning environment does appeal to me too, but it has very little to do with wanting to mold impressionable young minds. I guess I’m more selfish than that.

This morning I was thinking about jobs I might have liked to do sometime but I’m middle aged now and realistically they’re not going to happen. When you’re young you think you have all the time in the world to try different things. You don’t. It gets away from you.

I make music and I thought it would be fun to do that professionally. Before going back to school to study Japanese I considered learning how to be a studio engineer. But music makes a nice hobby. Maybe someday I’ll figure out how to make it pay for itself.

When I was a kid I wanted to be an astronaut because I liked space and Star Wars. In high school I decided I would be a psychologist because people felt at ease with me and wanted to tell me their problems. But I had too many problems of my own.

I will probably never be a professional novelist. Likewise a screenwriter, or surrealist, or soundtrack composer. Time is too short. These things, if they happen, are hobbies, personal challenges, Sunday morning dreams.

And that’s OK.

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Summertime

祭りだ!

祭りだ!

Summers are hard for me. I don’t do well in the heat. My ancestors come from northern Europe and have a genetic heritage honed during the Ice Age. In Japan, where summers are long and humid and very hot, my body has a very hard time. Every year it takes me a few weeks of horrible headaches and dizziness to get used to the change in the weather. But once I finally do, I find there are things about the summer that I really love.

Like with the other seasons in Japan, there are all kinds of special activities you really only find in the summer. I look forward to these as much as I do things like cherry blossom viewing in the spring, seeing the changing leaves in the fall, and drinking hot sake under the kotatsu in the winter. By far, my favorite thing about the summer is it’s festival season. Eat some festival food, drink some draft beer and enjoy the carnival-like atmosphere. The oppressive heat somehow just adds to it.

Japan is full of insects, great big things that sneak into your house god knows how and fall off your ceiling onto your face while you sleep, or jump out and say hello in the shower. Those bugs I can do without but there are some I actually like. Along with heat, summer days are full of the drone of cicadas. They start in before you wake and seem to go all night. The noise is incredibly loud too. Add to this the swarming clouds of dragonflies and giant praying mantises that hang out on your window screen and summer is just full of interesting insect life.

Summer is also the time in Japan for scary movies. In America it’s Halloween but in Japan, people traditionally told ghost stories in the summer to give people the chills. Also, Obon, the festival of the dead, is in the summer so it just makes sense. I always take the opportunity to watch classic Japanese ghost films in August.

Lastly, Japanese draft beer just tastes better when it’s hot outside. Japanese beer is pretty much all lager and dry and crisp so it’s especially suited for the season.

I’m anxiously awaiting the cooler temperatures of the fall but in the meantime I will make the best of the summer.

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The Monk And The Ornery Dog

IMG_0543

A view of the temple from the top of the cemetery hill. The dog is likely hiding.

Often when jogging around my neighborhood I pass a house with a dog tied up out front. This is where it lives. It spends its meager life on the end of a rope, which gives it just enough freedom of movement to get from its doghouse to the edge of the driveway. I know this because when I walk by the dog insists on testing the limits of its existence by lunging at me, barking and snapping madly until that cruel yoke suddenly and sharply tenses.

I don’t hate that dog. I’d be cranky and wary of passersby if I lived my life in such bondage too. I don’t understand why people want an animal if that’s the way they’re going to treat it. There are plenty of people in Japan who bring their beasts inside with them and treat them as members of the family but this “living burglar alarm” thing sadly persists.

Recently I’ve been finishing my run on a hill behind a Buddhist temple. The stairs there make for a great workout and the path goes straight up to my neighborhood. It’s a shortcut as much of a workout. I also like running past the temple and through the cemetery. Both are beautiful and inspiring when I’m starting to get tired and thinking about stopping.

The past two times I’ve run past the temple, though, I’ve encountered a much more visceral reason to keep running. Much like the house, this temple has a dog tied up in front of it. It’s not all the time, only when the tending monk is out sweeping the grounds. Perhaps this dog leads a comfortable life inside the house connected to the temple. But when it’s outside, tied to a post under the temple on the edge of the parking lot, it seems that its chief goal in life is to eat my ankles.

The first time I saw it, I didn’t think much of it. I run past animals all the time. Some are more interested in me than others but they seem to be reserved enough to stay out of my way. Not this dog, though. It doesn’t seem to recognize that the temple parking lot is a public place. Public or private, it wants my ankles.

It launched itself at me from the shade next to the building, yipping and snarling as only a small dog can. I expected it to soon reach the end of its tether but it kept coming, its owner having helpfully supplied it with plenty of slack. I mustered a burst of energy and sprinted past it, looking back over my shoulder at the sweeping monk and giving him my best, “What the hell, dude?” look. He, in turn, gave me his best, “Whatever, dude,” look.

This morning I ran through the temple parking lot again. I saw the monk but not the dog. At least, not at first. I was thinking about the coming hill, which I had yet to completely best, and suddenly there it was, a ball of brown fur and teeth streaking towards my exposed shins, its eyelids peeled back in determination. Again I swung wide, avoiding the dog. Again I looked back at the monk, scowling, who was again staring blankly at my foreign face.

The most annoying thing about this incident is that the monk has yet to apologize. Japanese people apologize for the smallest thing. They apologize if you inconvenience them. Half the time you thank someone by apologizing to them. It’s ingrained and automatic, and the fact that I’m foreign has very rarely prevented someone from apologizing to me. If anything, they apologize first and then notice that I’m not Japanese.

It’s doubly surprising because he’s a Buddhist monk. Where’s the compassion? Your shitty dog has twice tried to attack me. That doesn’t merit mentioning? I thought about confronting him and demanding an apology but I don’t know what that would accomplish, plus that’s really not me. It’s easy enough for me to run around the parking lot and still access the cemetery path. Perhaps someday when I’m less emotional I’ll stop and chat with him, and mention the situation.

If that fails I can always kick the dog in its stupid little face.

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Itchy Feet

IMG_2598Next week is my two-year anniversary in Taketa. As of August 5 I will have been working as a JET for two years. I’ve seen two years of students graduate. I’ve seen my goofy first-year junior high school students become goofy third-year students. I’ve figured out what’s expected of me and (I hope) fulfilled those expectations. I am rarely surprised anymore at work and I have enough safety measures in place that I can roll with most any punch.

I have also spent the last two years exploring Taketa, Oita, and Kyushu in general. I’ve been to Takachiho across the border in Miyazaki, Yoshinogari in Saga, the final resting place of Miyamoto Musashi in Kumamoto, and more. I’ve been to temples and historical sites, our own Oka Castle at least five times, and more shrines than I can count.

So of course I’m getting antsy.

I love Japan. I love where I live. And still I find myself googling things like, “ESL jobs China,” “ESL jobs Mongolia,” and even, “ESL jobs Korea.” Am I thinking of leaving Japan? Not particularly. Am I thinking of leaving Taketa? Not unless the pay is really good.

No, this is just itchy feet. I like to be in environments where everything is new, I suppose. I like the excitement of discovering a new place. Despite my protestations that I want to settle down and stay in Taketa forever, a part of me really does want to hit the road.

I’m committed to at least another year as an ALT in Taketa so this is all academic. The job could ostensibly continue for another two years after that, assuming everything goes well. And if it came down to it, would I really want to leave Taketa, or even Japan?

I guess I won’t know until the time comes.

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The Inaka Conundrum

Mt. Kuju ringed by cloud.

Mt. Kuju ringed by cloud.

I live in the countryside, or the inaka as they say in Japanese. Lots of people like to claim they live in the inaka just because they’re not in a major metropolitan area. If you live in a city with 200,000 people, a McDonald’s, and a Stabucks, I’m sorry but you don’t live in the inaka. It might not be what you’d call an exciting and vibrant city but it’s definitely not the countryside.

Taketa is the countryside and that’s just the way I like it.

I never thought I would like living in the countryside. I’m from a suburb of the San Francisco Bay Area. Growing up, my goal was always to live in the city. It’s where everything was happening. Clubs, bars, vintage clothing stores, record stores, museums and galleries… these were the things that made life worth living. I never gave a second thought to nature. It just didn’t excite me like a late-night burrito run.

I’ve lived in San Francisco, San Jose, Los Angeles, Tokyo, and Oita City, and there were things about them all that I loved (and, in the case of L.A., didn’t love so much). The only time I really felt the need to get away from the sheer concrete density of it all was in Tokyo, when I was surrounded on all sides by hours and hours of sprawl. But even then I didn’t run to the mountains, but to a seaside café or small-town Zen temple.

I have never lived in a place more beautiful than Taketa, which is deep in the lush, green mountains of northeast Kyushu. It’s hard to describe how verdant it is here in the summer, with terraced rice paddies like something out of a travel brochure cascading down bamboo-fringed slopes, and torrents of clear water rushing into the river that runs through the center of town.

Sure, there are drawbacks. I miss things like ethnic food and movie theaters and museums. But Oita City is only an hour away, and after I’ve had my curry and nan and seen some paintings, I can happily retreat back up the mountain, relieved to see green instead of concrete.

So what’s the conundrum then? If I could find someone to settle down with here, the problem would be solved. I would happily move into a house in the boonies and live the rest of my life under the impossibly blue summer sky. But in Taketa, where almost half the population is over 65, it’s exceedingly difficult to meet someone worth sharing that sky with.

I’m wondering if I’ll have to move to a big city at some point to find someone that I like. That would mean giving up the bamboo and waterfalls and rice paddies. I’m not going to make any decisions yet but I have to face the fact that I might not be able to put down roots just yet.

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The Blog Days Of Summer

IMG_2614Desk warming. If it’s summer vacation, I’m desk warming. For those of you not in the know, this means sitting at a desk with nothing to do. For most of the year I’m teaching classes at any of my 10 schools. Unlike most JETs though I don’t have a home school. My headquarters is the Taketa Board of Education in city hall. When I’m not at a school, I’m here, adding body heat to my ’60s-era gunmetal gray desk.

It seems to be an inescapable part of ESL life, desk warming. I first became familiar with it teaching in Korea. During the long breaks between semesters I’d sit at my desk, watch movies on my computer, and play Angry Birds on the iPad. Sometimes my school would let me “work from home,” which wasn’t strictly allowed but they were pretty lenient with me.

Here, though, I’m not hiding in an empty school. I’m sitting in a bullpen of desks in city hall, and I’m the first face people see when they come to our section. I’m not expected to take care of customers but I do have to greet them and, most importantly, look like I’m working. Loudly laughing at movies and launching flightless birds at shabbily constructed pig fortresses wouldn’t go over well.

Reading, studying Japanese, and getting ready for the next semester are all acceptable activities. Given that there isn’t a lot to do for next semester—my lessons are made reactively, that is, when requested—that leaves reading and studying. I’m loaded up on books, and I have plenty to study before the next Japanese Language Proficiency Test in December.

Then there’s writing, which is also an acceptable activity that looks like real work. Along with other, more general writing, I’m hoping to create a number of articles for this blog. Lord knows I’ve been neglecting it lately.

Here’s to the next five weeks of light air conditioning, pretend working and desk warming.

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In Praise Of Oita

oitaI live in the prefecture of Oita. Like most foreigners living here, I ended up here by chance. In 2008 I came to Oita University to study for a year as an exchange student. I had never heard of Oita before. In fact, I was hoping for Kyoto. But fate has a way of stepping in and messing up your plans and, as in this case, completely changing your life. It was an amazing year so when I applied to JET in 2012 I put down Oita as my top choice.

This time I’m not here by accident. I’m here because Oita is awesome. This isn’t just misplaced pride. The more I travel in Japan, the more I realize how unique it is.

Castles
Oita has a whole lot of castles. Most prefectures only have one. Oita has two full castles, a few partial ones, and a whole lot of castle ruins. Why so many? When Tokugawa became Shogun he issued an edict that each domain was only allowed one castle. Today’s modern prefectural borders correspond pretty closely to the old domains with the exception of Oita. Oita was actually a number of small domains at the time, each with its own castle. When the Shogun fell these small domains were organized into one large prefecture. I win.

Nakastle castle

Nakastle castle

Buddha Rock Carvings
Oita is known as the hot springs prefecture. Heavy volcanic activity ensures that we have more hot springs than any other prefecture. This same volcanic activity has also created cliffs and rock walls that are particularly suited for carving. The stone Buddha statues of Usuki are pretty famous, as is the Fudomyo carving in Kunisaki, but if you know where to look you can find carvings all over the prefecture.

Usuki Buddha

Usuki Buddha

Shrines
Oita is in the top 10 prefectures for number of shrines per person. For someone like me who loves Shinto shrines, this is a real bonus. Of course, there’s the famous shrine in Usa but the whole prefecture is dotted with shrines large and small. I have spent many a Saturday driving down back roads looking for shrines. I am rarely disappointed.

Usa Shrine

Usa Shrine

Fried Chicken
Oita is famous for toriten, tempura fried chicken. It’s such an obvious thing that I’m surprised it isn’t a national dish. What is a national dish though is karaage. I’ve eaten it any number of times all over Japan and even in America. But I had no idea that this was born in Oita, too: Usa to be exact. The city of Nakatsu is also famous for its karaage. Oita definitely knows chicken.

Nature
Oita is staggeringly beautiful. Its got a rugged coast line, green mountains full of terraced rice fields, beautiful rivers and of course the Kuju Highlands, which look like nowhere else in Japan. I’ve been all over Kyushu and I have to say that Oita is the prettiest prefecture around.

Shiramizu Falls

Shiramizu Falls

Weather
To say that Oita has great weather is kind of pushing it but it’s not bad, considering it’s Japan. The summers are long but not super hot. Big cities like Tokyo and Osaka are much hotter. Hokkaido has mild summers but long, snowy winters and we absolutely do not. I think I had to dig my car out of the snow only twice last winter. And that was the worst winter in 30 years.

Proximity
Of course, Oita doesn’t have everything. But it is located close enough to other places that even if you can’t find what you want here, what you’re looking for might be just a few hours away. Need a big city fix? Fukuoka is around the corner. How about a volcano? Aso is right across the border in Kumamoto. The cave where the sun goddess hid? Not far away in Miyazaki. Need to surf? Drive down the coast. Hell, even the Asian mainland isn’t that far away.

Amanoiwato Shrine in Takachiho, Miyazaki

Amanoiwato Shrine in Takachiho, Miyazaki

I don’t know if I’ll be able to stay in Oita forever but I will certainly try to. As far as I’m concerned, this is home.

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